I picked this up in Alexandria on Sunday! I have been wanting one of these for years since seeing them in person in Singapore and Malaysia. They are small little cabinets with huge 29″ monitors. They are made to house JAMMA style boards and I have always wanted one because they are so easy to move around and change boards. Here is a reference photo of what the cab looks like (not mine):
Mine is in pretty nice shape overall. I’m going to stick 1943: The Loop Master in it. It does need some cleaning and other work done but nothing major. Pictures to come!
Moon Patrol has needed a bezel reproduction for many years. So many are falling apart and not in the best of shape. A lot of them seem to have issues with the screened inks lifting off. Zork40 @ Noiselandarcade.net has been working on a reproduction using a combination of vector and raster art for almost three years now. It sounds like Rich @ Thisoldgame is almost ready to start screening the reproductions but there needs to be a higher demand. If you have been waiting for a Moon Patrol bezel put your name on the list in this thread:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=126741
Here is Zork40′s post over @ Noiselandarcade.net
I miss the Moon Patrol I used to have so I purchased an empty cabinet to rebuild for $50. Yet another project!!
I decided to put up some pictures of my gameroom. It’s not complete but you can see where I am going 
I found a fully working Burgertime PCB for $85 that I mentioned in a previous post from a person I have dealt with in the past. Talk about excited, I could finally get the game up and running! I posted on the forums and I was the first post wanting to buy the PCB. My excitement didn’t last long though… I got an email back yesterday stating that someone else sent an email before me and I was not getting the PCB. That sucked to say the least.
On a positive note I did find another Non-working PCB for $40 shipped. I swapped the roms from my other set into it last night and it plays perfectly although the graphics are rolling and distorted. This is probably because the boardsets are slightly different; I have to add two 24 pin ROM sockets to make then the same.
Just a little tidbit: Burgertime PCBs come in three different versions. The first is for the Deco cassette system, the second being the Data East boardset and third being the Bally/Williams boardset. The cassette system is totally different than the others. The DE and B/W sets look very similar with the only differences being a few extra caps on the DE set. The sockets aren’t exactly the same but there are empty positions for sockets on the DE boardset. Hopefully when I add these two sockets and populate the board it will work 100%.
It’s done cosmetically! Looking pretty good IMHO. I decided to keep it mostly original so I did not paint the bottom of the sides, I just cleaned it up. The inside is clean as well. Pictures:
I just got another untested Burgertime boardset in today so once I have a working boardset this will be 100%.
Well my PCB is having all sorts of issues. Once I replaced 15C the game went into game mode (hurrah!!) but the game was going nuts like it was overclocked. I went into test mode and it acts like a coin switch is stuck on during certain tests. I went into the DIP switch test mode and I noticed that one of the dip switches is rapidly switching on and off. Further investigation shows that DIP switch 2 is not changing state like it should. Looks like I have more work cut out for myself with this PCB!
The positive thing is I found a fully working PCB for $85. I’m going to buy that and put it in the game so I can play it and fix this one at my leisure. It will be a good spare once I have figured out what is wrong.
Burgertime is almost completely done! I installed the CPO this past weekend and cleaned up the joystick. T he panel has been reassembled and installed on the game. I only have my board issues and I need to fix the back door and this is complete!
Pictures to come
After letting the monitor chassis sit for a few days to dry I reassembled it and it is nice and clean now!
I have installed new t-moulding, cleaned up the power block and painted the carriage bolts for the game. The coin door was completely disassembled and tumbled.
Hopefully this will be complete by the end of this week. Some more pictures:
Last night I cleaned the monitor chassis and I now have it sitting in front of a fan to dry it out (after blowing all water away with a compressor). It looks super clean!
I finished painting the interior of the cabinet and it looks great. I started cleaning the power box in the bottom of the cabinet. It’s pretty dirty. It has all of these foil stickers on it to tell you which fuses to use that I do not think were reproduced. I wish I didn’t start cleaning it up because now I am left with a decision. Do I completely strip it and refinish it and make new stickers? Or do I clean what I can and keep it original? I’m leaning towards leaving it where it is but the OCD part of me wants it to look as nice as possible. Originality is playing a key here.
