Category: Burgertime


I found a fully working Burgertime PCB for $85 that I mentioned in a previous post from a person I have dealt with in the past.  Talk about excited, I could finally get the game up and running!  I posted on the forums and I was the first post wanting to buy the PCB.  My excitement didn’t last long though… I got an email back yesterday stating that someone else sent an email before me and I was not getting the PCB.  That sucked to say the least.

On a positive note I did find another Non-working PCB for $40 shipped.  I swapped the roms from my other set into it last night and it plays perfectly although the graphics are rolling and distorted.  This is probably because the boardsets are slightly different; I have to add two 24 pin ROM sockets to make then the same.

Just a little tidbit:  Burgertime PCBs come in three different versions.  The first is for the Deco cassette system, the second being the Data East boardset and third being the Bally/Williams boardset.  The cassette system is totally different than the others.  The DE and B/W sets look very similar with the only differences being a few extra caps on the DE set.  The sockets aren’t exactly the same but there are empty positions for sockets on the DE boardset.  Hopefully when I add these two sockets and populate the board it will work 100%.

It’s done cosmetically!  Looking pretty good IMHO.  I decided to keep it mostly original so I did not paint the bottom of the sides, I just cleaned it up.  The inside is clean as well.  Pictures:

I just got another untested Burgertime boardset in today so once I have a working boardset this will be 100%.

Well my PCB is having all sorts of issues.  Once I replaced 15C the game went into game mode (hurrah!!) but the game was going nuts like it was overclocked.  I went into test mode and it acts like a coin switch is stuck on during certain tests.  I went into the DIP switch test mode and I noticed that one of the dip switches is rapidly switching on and off.  Further investigation shows that DIP switch 2 is not changing state like it should.  Looks like I have more work cut out for myself with this PCB!

The positive thing is I found a fully working PCB for $85.  I’m going to buy that and put it in the game so I can play it and fix this one at my leisure.  It will be a good spare once I have figured out what is wrong.

Burgertime is almost completely done!  I installed the CPO this past weekend and cleaned up the joystick.  T he panel has been reassembled and installed on the game.  I only have my board issues and I need to fix the back door and this is complete!

Pictures to come :)

After letting the monitor chassis sit for a few days to dry I reassembled it and it is nice and clean now!

I have installed new t-moulding, cleaned up the power block and painted the carriage bolts for the game.    The coin door was completely disassembled and tumbled.

Hopefully this will be complete by the end of this week.  Some more pictures:

Last night I cleaned the monitor chassis and I now have it sitting in front of a fan to dry it out (after blowing all water away with a compressor).  It looks super clean!

I finished painting the interior of the cabinet and it looks great.   I started cleaning the power box in the bottom of the cabinet.  It’s pretty dirty.  It has all of these foil stickers on it to tell you which fuses to use that I do not think were reproduced.  I wish I didn’t start cleaning it up because now I am left with a decision.  Do I completely strip it and refinish it and make new stickers?  Or do I clean what I can and keep it original?  I’m leaning towards leaving it where it is but the OCD part of me wants it to look as nice as possible.  Originality is playing a key here.

I have accomplished a few things the past couple of days.

  • Sanded the inside bottom of the cabinet and sealed with Minwax Polycrylic
  • Repainted the black areas surrounding the monitor
  • Cleaned the monitor tube and removed the chassis

I painted the inside of the cabinet with Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Semi-Gloss paint.  It goes on smooth and is the correct sheen for the cabinet.  After painting the black I took some clear engine enamel and covered the black for protection.  It is a slight bit shinier than stock but it looks great.

I still need to:

  • Clean the monitor chassis and re-cap it
  • Rebuild the control panel with a new overlay and buttons
  • Fix the PCB issue
  • Paint the carriage bolts used in the front of the machine to attach the coin box
  • Clean the marquee

Then it will be complete!

I updated my picture gallery here:

http://gallery.metahugh.com/main.php?g2_itemId=2203

Here are some progress pictures for the click lazy :)

I made some progress on Burgertime last night.  I completely stripped the cabinet and put the majority of the metal parts in the tumbler.

Burgertime - Totally Stripped

I didn’t post about it (DOH!) but I cleaned the sides of the cabinet with a Magic Eraser the other day.  What a difference that makes!

Burgertime Left Side - Before Cleaning

Burgertime Left Side - After Cleaning

I love Magic Erasers.  If used correctly they can make just about anything clean.

So my Burgertime is stuck in test mode.  I think it is a bad DIP switch.  I haven’t done way too much testing with my Logic Probe so I had to find a little refresher to get me back up to speed.  I happened upon this page:

Lawnmowerman’s Pac-Man Troubleshooting Page – How to use a Logic Probe

Here is the section relevant to what I am doing:

Troubleshooting faulty INPUTS

(joystick, coins, buttons, dip switches)

Player 1 Start

Schematic of Player 1 Start input section
Note the 74LS367 has 2 sections with 2 seperate enables !74LS367 Pinouts

You can use the same technique as above to troubleshoot input switches such as the joystick, start buttons, Coin inputs or even the Dip Switches.  You will notice that all of these switches have pull-up resistors.  A pull up resistor brings the voltage up to +5 VDC so that the inputs are at a normally High state (1).  On Pac-Man the pull-up resistors are RM6 (Dips), RM7 (test/table/start/player 2 controls), and RM8 (coin, credit, player 1 controls).  The RM is a designation for Resistor Network or Resistor Array.  You will notice above that RM7 is described as a 1K x 8 (1 K by 8), meaning that this resistor array has 8 resistors of 1K ohm value with a common lead.

You will also see a small .1 micro Farad capacitor (C17) tied to ground, this is to lengthen the momentary pulse (a low state as the switch is closed connecting it to Ground) as the capacitor recharges and enable the logic to actually have enough time to register a input.  This also acts as a “debounce circuit” eliminating the circuit from registering many switch closures and opens that occur in the tiny time window as the switch changes state.  (Notice the Dip Switches don’t use these capacitors).

You can “see” the controls/ dips at work with your logic probe from the switch.  Place your logic probe at the 74LS367 (Hex Buffer Tri-State)  8H pin 6.  It will be normally High until you press the player 1 START down, when it will change to Low.  So if I look at the output of this circuit, I’ll see the same thing at 8H pin 7 right?  WRONG.  Notice the output is labeled DB5 (Data Bus 5), but DB5 is also at 8E pin 7, 8D pin 5, 3F pin 6, 4D pin 7,  and 6D pin 6.  We’re on the BUS here man!  Not only is this now the path for information about the joystick being pressed down but it could also be a Player 1 Down, or Dip 5 or info to the Graphic ROM’s or Sound Section etc…  The BUS is the pathway for data to travel in either direction.  In our case the Data BUS is 8 BITs wide, our joystick closure is only one bit of information in a system that can directly access 64K bits.

So how do we keep up with this information?  The same way the post office delivers your mail, you have a address that is explicitly defined to you.  Okay, what’s the address for “Player 1 Start”?  We’ll save that for latter.  For now it is important to notice that if you are on the bus, things will be going too fast to see what you want.  If you notice the 74LS367 chip at 8H has a line at pin 1 IN1 which is an input (see the arrow pointing to our chip?).  This is used to ADDRESS our chip 8H and tell it “Hey man, what data do you have for me on DB4~DB7″ (it also reads DB0~ DB3 from 8F concurrently) at which time the Central Processor Unit (CPU) is only looking at these particular inputs at this given address, which includes our switch Player 1 START.  So things are too fast for us to know if they are working properly on the BUS side but we can check to see if they are working properly before the Hex Buffer and we can also be sly & check to see that the Hex Buffer is being used by the CPU if we look at the IN1 signal at pin 1, it must go LOW to enable a read from chip 8H.

This is going to be a big help troubleshooting my DIP switch issue.  Once this is resolved I will have a 100% working Burgertime!

I picked up my Burgertime last week

I ended up picking up my Burgertime last Wednesday before the holidays.  Overall the game is dirty but it is cleaning up nice.  It has a boardset issue, one of the DIP switches is not functioning so I will end up replacing the entire bank to fix that problem.